What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientLithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate
AbsorbentAnacardium Occidentale Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingLimonene
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingThymus Zygis Flower Oil
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Octyldodecanol, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Anacardium Occidentale Seed Oil, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Allantoin, Carbomer, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Thymus Zygis Flower Oil, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Linalool, Eugenol, Citral, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantUrea
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Rice Bran Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Vulgaris Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentMalpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingMenthol
MaskingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingWater, Glycerin, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Arginine, Allantoin, Mentha Piperita Oil, Menthol, Disodium EDTA
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate SE is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of Glyceryl Stearate. It comes with a small amount of soap (usually potassium or sodium stearate) that gives it the "SE" part.
That soap lets it pull oil and water together on its own which is why it shows up as an emulsifier, thickener, and emollient.
Industry survey data shows this ingredient is used around 1-5% but Glyceryl Stearate goes as high at 17% in a leave-on deodorant.
Safety-wise, it's pretty boring: it's been deemed safe for topical use in 1982 and again most recently in 2021 by the CIR. Human repeat insult patch tests come back non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
This ingredient does carry a comedogenic rating of 3 from the old rabbit-ear assay. Just remember testing finished products in humans showed that formulas built with "comedogenic" ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves. It's worth patch testing if you're breakout prone, and always listen to your skin.
The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize the stearic acid in this ingredient, so it may not be fungal acne safe.
Allergy is rare: a 310-patient patch test study of common emulsifiers found this ingredient was not a meaningful reactor. Isolated case reports do exist so a true contact allergy is possible but uncommon.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate SeStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 2-3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water