What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientDiisopropyl Adipate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSuccinoglycan
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Mannose
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Mannose Phosphate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSoy Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantMirabilis Jalapa Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingDaphne Odora Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Skin ConditioningPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCitrus Junos Peel Oil
AstringentCistus Ladaniferus Oil
EmollientGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, C12-16 Alcohols, Diisopropyl Adipate, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Yeast Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Succinoglycan, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Mannose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Mirabilis Jalapa Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Daphne Odora Callus Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Junos Peel Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingGlucosylrutin
AntioxidantPantolactone
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Skin ConditioningIsoquercitrin
AntioxidantDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Citric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Panthenol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Methylpropanediol, Lauroyl Lysine, Tocopherol, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Glucosylrutin, Pantolactone, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Isoquercitrin, Distarch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate Citrate is a citric acid ester of glyceryl stearate.
It is an emulsifier, emollient, and a surfactant.
Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating. Common ingredients include oils and water, which do not mix naturally. Emulsifiers have properties that help keep ingredients such as these together.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
Surfactants help gather oils, dirt, and other pollutants from the skin. This helps them to be easily rinsed away.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate CitrateYou probably know this ingredient as Thiamidol. It is often called the "hydroquinone alternative" because of it's pigment-fighting abilities.
This ingredient is patented by Beiersdorf (the owner of Nivea, Eucerin, and La Prairie).
It works by in inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzyme your melanocytes use to produce melanin) so less pigment ends up deposited in your skin.
Here's something interesting:
Most brightening ingredients you've heard of like kojic acid, arbutin, and even hydroquinone were originally tested on mushroom tyrosinase. And it turns out, mushroom tyrosinase works pretty differently from the human kind.
So Beiersdorf screened 50,000 compounds against actual human tyrosinase, and Thiamidol came out as the strongest. It showed to be more potent than hydroquinone or arbutin at blocking the human enzyme.
It's been shown to fade melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun spots at 0.1-0.2% twice daily with visible results in about four weeks. One randomized trial even found 0.2% Thiamidol worked just as well as 4% hydroquinone on melasma but with fewer side effects.
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and minor irritation has been reported very infrequently.
Be sure to also check out Rucinol, another "hydroquinone alternative".
Learn more about Isobutylamido Thiazolyl ResorcinolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum