What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Polybutene
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Pvp
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingRhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Palmitic Acid
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientJasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeXanthan Gum
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialLinalool
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Acacia Senegal Gum, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Polybutene, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Pvp, Arginine, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Palmitic Acid, Synthetic Wax, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Glyceryl Stearate, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Hydroxyacetophenone, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Salicylate, CI 77499
Water
Skin ConditioningEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingSynthetic Wax
AbrasivePolybutene
Pvp
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Arginine
MaskingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientRhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Cellulose
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTartaric Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingTriticum Vulgare Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Synthetic Wax, Polybutene, Pvp, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Arginine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Triticum Vulgare Bran Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Plankton Extract, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77499
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolC10-18 Triglycerides is a skin conditioning and texture-enhancer.
It is created from glycerin and a mixture of C10-18 fatty acids.
This ingredient improves spreadability and helps thicken a product.
According to manufacturers, it usually comes from vegetable-based saturated fatty acids. Common bases for this ingredient are coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or both.
Due to the melting point being close to skin temperature, it is usually used in lip products.
Triglycerides are a main component of fat in the human body.
Learn more about C10-18 TriglyceridesCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Copernicia Cerifera Wax comes from a palm tree native to Brazil; another name for this ingredient is Carnauba Wax.
This ingredient is used to thicken texture and also leaves behind a film when applied.
Fun fact: This wax has the highest melting point of all natural waxes and low solubility.
Learn more about Copernicia Cerifera WaxGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidPolybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybutenePotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePvp is a water-soluble synthetic polymer and common hairstyling ingredient. It is a film-forming ingredient and used to "hold" specific shapes of hair.
In cosmetics, PVP helps products like sunscreens and color cosmetics last longer and wear more evenly.
It is less effective in high-humidity. It tends to draw moisture, but this moisture dismantles the structure and "hold".
PVP is generally well tolerated on skin and toxicity studies are negative for dermal irritation.
Learn more about PvpThis ingredient is also known as berry wax; it is a plant-derived wax from the peel or rind of the lacquer tree with emollient and stabilizing properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient can help thicken/stabilize formulas, improves slip, and leave a soft emollient on skin.
It is important to note this ingredient comes from the lacquer tree which is in the same plant family as poison ivy or poison oak. Though this ingredient comes from the wax instead of sap (the sap contains the substance that causes itchy rashes), there is a very small chance that sensitive people could react.
Learn more about Rhus Verniciflua Peel WaxStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterEuphorbia Cerifera wax comes from a shrub in Northern Mexico. It is used to stabilize formulations and has emollient properties.
Emollients form a thin layer on top of skin to prevent water from evaporating, keeping skin and lips hydrated.
According to a manufacturer, this wax can range from a yellow/brown color to translucent.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera Wax