What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Astringent
Acacia Senegal Gum
MaskingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Polybutene
Pvp
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Arginine
Masking
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Cellulose
Absorbent
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Tartaric Acid
Buffering
Citric Acid
Buffering
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Triticum Vulgare Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Sodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
Masking
CI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Synthetic Wax, Polybutene, Pvp, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Arginine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Triticum Vulgare Bran Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Plankton Extract, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77499
Water
Skin ConditioningCopernicia Cerifera Cera
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters
Emulsion Stabilising
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Vp/Va Copolymer
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin Conditioning
Aminomethyl Propanol
BufferingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Polyimide-1
Galactoarabinan
Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax
Shorea Robusta Resin
TonicSodium Dehydroacetate
Preservative
Lecithin
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
CI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77007
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Synthetic Wax, Vp/Va Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Palmitic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Aminomethyl Propanol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyimide-1, Galactoarabinan, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Shorea Robusta Resin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, CI 77499, CI 77007
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited. Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidSynthetic Wax is created from fossil fuels such as natural gas. It is used to enhance texture, adjust pH, and as an occlusive.
It may also be used as an abrasive ingredient to exfoliate the skin.
Synthetic Wax may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
