What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
Buffering
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
Smoothing
Glycerin
Humectant
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Tranexamic Acid
Astringent
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventButylene Glycol
Humectant
Kojic Acid
Antioxidant
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Dimethicone
Emollient
Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
EmollientSqualane
Emollient
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion Stabilising
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Water, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tranexamic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Kojic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bakuchiol, Dimethicone, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Squalane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Glycerin
Humectant
Human Bone Marrow Stem Cell Conditioned Media
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ethyl Linoleate
Emollient
Iris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Emulsion Stabilising
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Antioxidant
Betaine
Humectant
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Glycosphingolipids
EmollientTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSyzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Kunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Thioctic Acid
Antioxidant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingSh-Oligopeptide-33
Skin Conditioning
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glycerin, Human Bone Marrow Stem Cell Conditioned Media, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bakuchiol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethyl Linoleate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Betaine, Potassium Sorbate, Glycosphingolipids, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract, Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract, Kunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Thioctic Acid, Ubiquinone, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-33, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
