What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylic Acid
Emulsion StabilisingAgar
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentTranexamic Acid
AstringentKojic Acid
AntioxidantArbutin
AntioxidantAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlutathione
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Tartaric Acid
BufferingAluminum Glycinate
AstringentCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingWater, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Polyacrylic Acid, Agar, Niacinamide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Alpha-Arbutin, Caffeine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glutathione, Adenosine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Tartaric Acid, Aluminum Glycinate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientAgar
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantUltramarines
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPotassium Chloride
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningBenzophenone-4
UV AbsorberTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCalcium Aluminum Borosilicate
Caffeine
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingCalcium Titanium Borosilicate
AbrasiveSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Diisopropyl Propionamide
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCI 75470
Cosmetic ColorantTin Oxide
AbrasiveHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAdenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningResveratrol
AntioxidantSh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantSh-Decapeptide-7
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantGlutathione
Oligopeptide-29
AntioxidantOligopeptide-32
AntiseborrhoeicPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningBiotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-4
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningMyristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Skin ConditioningMyristoyl Hexapeptide-16
Skin ConditioningMyristoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
AntioxidantNonapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningNicotinoyl Tripeptide-35
AntioxidantNicotinoyl Dipeptide-26
Skin ConditioningNicotinoyl Dipeptide-23
Skin ConditioningOctapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-13
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-29
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-44
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-30
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-10 Citrulline
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-32
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-29
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-22
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-16
Skin ProtectingSh-Polypeptide-62
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Chondrus Crispus Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Agar, Allantoin, Sucrose, Ultramarines, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Maltodextrin, Potassium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Benzophenone-4, Titanium Dioxide, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Caffeine, Sodium Citrate, Calcium Titanium Borosilicate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, CI 75470, Tin Oxide, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propanediol, CI 77510, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine Triphosphate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Resveratrol, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Glutathione, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Alanine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-12, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Nonapeptide-1, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, Octapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-13, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Tetrapeptide-44, Tetrapeptide-30, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-32, Tripeptide-29, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-62
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAgar is the vegan substitute for animal-gelatin. It helps thicken and improve the texture of cosmetics. It comes from cell-walls of red algae.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water