Tia’m Blue Peptide Calm Down Serum Versus I Dew Care Dew Not Disturb Hydrating Korean Rice Sleeping Mask
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Copper Tripeptide-1 to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantErythritol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventDiethoxyethyl Succinate
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantDipeptide-15
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningViola Mandshurica Flower Extract
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
ChelatingTromethamine
BufferingTetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
ChelatingBetaine Salicylate
AntimicrobialMalachite Extract
AntioxidantNymphaea Caerulea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingOligopeptide-6
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Xylitol, Erythritol, Methylpropanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Dipeptide-15, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tromethamine, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Betaine Salicylate, Malachite Extract, Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Arginine, Beta-Carotene, Glycine, Oligopeptide-6
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSqualane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
EmollientSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate
SurfactantSodium Phytate
ChelatingDextrin
AbsorbentAllantoin
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Oryza Sativa Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tromethamine, Dicaprylyl Ether, Panthenol, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Sodium Phytate, Dextrin, Allantoin, Arginine, Tocopherol, Propanediol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Caffeine, Parfum, CI 77891, Mica, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateThis is a lab-made ingredient that plays a huge role in improving the texture of a formula.
It's used to thicken watery gel-creams, prevent water + oil from separating, and give products a silky, non-greasy glide.
Safety-wise, a panel of independent toxicologists reviewed this ingredient and concluded it to be safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration.
A separate sensitization patch test on humans also showed no evidence of allergic reactivity, and a true allergy to this ingredient is considered rare.
Typical usage levels range from 0.015%-3% in leave-on products and 0.078%-3.2% in rinse-off products.
Learn more about Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum