What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides
EmollientGlyceryl Rosinate
PerfumingTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCandelilla Cera
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Olive Oil
Skin ConditioningSalvia Hispanica Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantPortulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSucrose Cocoate
EmulsifyingBrassica Alba Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningGlucomannan
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Glyceryl Rosinate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Candelilla Cera, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Squalane, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Behenate, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Trihydroxystearin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sucrose Cocoate, Brassica Alba Sprout Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Glucomannan
Polybutene
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPunica Granatum Sterols
Skin ConditioningDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveC12-15 Alkyl Lactate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientIsostearyl Hydroxystearate
EmollientTriisostearyl Citrate
EmollientTrimethylolpropane Triisostearate
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientHydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene
Mentha Piperita Oil
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTribehenin
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAlgae Extract
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingGardenia Taitensis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Sterols, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyethylene, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Octyldodecanol, Isostearyl Hydroxystearate, Triisostearyl Citrate, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Mentha Piperita Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Tribehenin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Algae Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Gardenia Taitensis Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 15850, CI 77891, CI 77491
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateThis ingredient is also known as cupuacu butter. It's a soft, creamy plant fat that works as a skin-conditioning agent and often marketed as the plant-based alternative to lanolin.
The composition of this butter is dominated by oleic acid, stearic acid, and smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acids. There's also a useful dose of phystosterols.
That fatty-acid-and-sterol combo is why this ingredient behaves like a richer cousin of shea butter: the lipids reinforce the skin's surface and slow water loss while the sterols help support the barrier.
There's some early research too: a mouse study found cupuacu butter emulgels had antioxidant activity and a measurable photoprotective effect against UVB damage.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient but those prone to congestion might prefer formulations with lower concentrations.
Fungal acne: Cupuacu butter's fatty acids are mostly "locked up" in triglycerides that Malassezia can't easily feed on, but the yeast can slowly break these down to access the free fatty acids. Therefore, ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed ButterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin