What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningBehentrimonium Methosulfate
SurfactantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningHoney
HumectantHypericum Perforatum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingWater, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Honey, Hypericum Perforatum Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientParfum
MaskingBehentrimonium Methosulfate
SurfactantStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientQuaternium-80
Propylene Glycol
HumectantHoney
HumectantPolyquaternium-37
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSilk Amino Acids
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Lauryl Alcohol Diphosphonic Acid
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingLauryl Glucoside
CleansingBenzophenone-3
UV AbsorberPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Parfum, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Panthenol, Dimethiconol, Quaternium-80, Propylene Glycol, Honey, Polyquaternium-37, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Silk Amino Acids, Disodium EDTA, Lauryl Alcohol Diphosphonic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Lauric Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Benzophenone-3, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, CI 19140, CI 15985
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate is a gentle, positively-charged conditioning agent made from rapeseed oil.
It's the opposite of a harsh cleansing sulfate despite having "sulfate" in its name; its a detangler/softener in haircare and helps keep oil/water blended into a creamy texture as an emulsifier.
Concentration-wise, safety review reports the wider trimonium family shows up between 0.0005% to 10% in rinse-off products and 0.001% to 4% in leave-on products.
This ingredient is commonly used at ~1–5% when acting as the emulsifier.
Allergies to this ingredient are rare; the CIR panel noted the literature lacks clinical reports of irritation or sensitization and patch tests on finished products containing it came back clean.
Learn more about Behentrimonium MethosulfateThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAHoney mostly shows up in skincare as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. This is because its natural sugars (fructose and glucose) help hold onto water so skin feels softer and more hydrated.
Beyond hydration, honey also has antibacterial and wound-supporting properties. Its antibacterial action comes from a mix of things:
Manuka-type honey has an extra bacteria-killing compound called methylglyoxal, while all Honey contains a natural antibacterial protein called bee defensin-1.
Honey also nudges your immune cells to release signals that start the healing process. This is why medical-grade Honey is actually used in real wound dressings.
Just keep in mind that most of the strong clinical evidence is for wound care and not everyday cosmetic claims.
On concentrations and safety:
According to industry data, honey is used up to 22% in paste/mud packs, 7% as a honey extract in body/hand products, and face skincare levels sit well below that.
A human repeat insult patch test of 7% honey extract in 112 subjects showed no sensitization.
Allergy-wise, honey itself is a rare sensitizer. The bigger culprit is usually propolis that sometimes tags along in less-refined honey.
People allergic to propolis, conifer, poplar, salicylates, or Balsam of Peru are advised to avoid this ingredient due to shared allergens.
You might see this ingredient listed as either Honey or Mel (they're the same thing). Mel is simply the Latin word for honey.
A lot of people wonder if Honey is vegan, and technically it isn't.
Honey is made by bees; they gather nectar and their natural enzymes turn it into the Honey we know. So because it comes from an animal, it doesn't fit a vegan lifestyle.
And please remember to be kind to bees :). They're vital to so many ecosystems, and many species are struggling so they're worth protecting.
Learn more about HoneyPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water