This smoothing serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingVinyldimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingGlutathione
Hydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAsparagus Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil
AstringentLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentBarosma Betulina Leaf Extract
PerfumingSorbitol
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSucrose Stearate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialBisabolol
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHesperidin
EmollientErgothioneine
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Vinyldimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethiconol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Tocopherol, Asparagus Officinalis Extract, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract, Sorbitol, Ascorbic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sucrose Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Beta-Carotene, Ferulic Acid, Bisabolol, Beta-Glucan, Hesperidin, Ergothioneine, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyglycerin-3
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventMethylpropanediol
SolventPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAureobasidium Pullulans Ferment
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningRibes Nigrum Seed Oil
EmollientTuber Melanosporum Extract
HumectantRose Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
C12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Methylpropanediol, Panthenol, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Rose Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, C12-14 Alketh-12, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Beta-Glucan, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sodium DNA, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Xanthan Gum, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed sponge comes from marine or freshwater sponges. This is the main ingredient for "spicules".
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. They help push active ingredients into the skin to enhance the penetration and efficacy of these ingredients.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum