SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azulene Peptide 5 Soothing Cream Versus Epii Double Up Cream Ectoin & Panthenol
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventIsopentyldiol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingEthoxydiglycol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTrehalose
HumectantC12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningViola Mandshurica Flower Extract
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPullulan
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGuaiazulene
AntimicrobialSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
SurfactantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-15
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
ChelatingBisabolol
AntioxidantGlucose
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Isopentyldiol, Niacinamide, Ethoxydiglycol, Xylitol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Trehalose, C12-14 Alketh-12, Glyceryl Glucoside, Caffeine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Beta-Glucan, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ectoin, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Adenosine, Glycerin, Pullulan, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Guaiazulene, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-15, Tripeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Bisabolol, Glucose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Sodium PCA, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Phospholipids, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantVinyldimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingTromethamine
BufferingAniba Rosodora Wood Oil
AstringentAllantoin
Skin ConditioningWater, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Vinyldimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Ectoin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tromethamine, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Allantoin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolEctoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.
This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.
When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.
Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:
A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.
Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.
In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:
Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.
Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.
The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.
Learn more about EctoinEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water