What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingPropanediol
SolventGlycol Distearate
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantSucrose
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Phytate
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeTriethyl Citrate
MaskingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientBenzoic Acid
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Glycol Distearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Silica, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sucrose, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Triethyl Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTridecyl Stearate
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningCellulose Acetate Butyrate
Linoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Tricaprylin
PerfumingSodium PCA
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSilica Silylate
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveMagnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Isopropyl Palmitate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Tridecyl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Allantoin, Retinol, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tricaprylin, Sodium PCA, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Silica Silylate, Silica, Magnesium Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.
This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.
Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).
Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.
The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Seed OilCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIsopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.
Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.
Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).
The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.
Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl PalmitateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water