What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantLecithin
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialPolymethyl Methacrylate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingNiacin
SmoothingUndecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingDiacetyl Boldine
Skin ConditioningPEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingBHA
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTriisopropanolamine
BufferingHydrochloric Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCitronellyl Methylcrotonate
MaskingCitral
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingWater, Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Alcohol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 4-Butylresorcinol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Retinol, Azelaic Acid, Niacin, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Morus Alba Root Extract, Diacetyl Boldine, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, Sodium Cholate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, BHA, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Triisopropanolamine, Hydrochloric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Limonene, Isoeugenol
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeteth-20
CleansingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGlycolic Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialAlcohol
AntimicrobialPolysilicone-11
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylparaben
PreservativeMethylparaben
PreservativePropylparaben
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCitral
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingWater, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteth-20, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Glucoside, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Parfum, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Limonene, Isoeugenol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCoumarins are a group of substances found naturally in plants. There are over 1300 types of coumarins identified. It has a natural vanilla scent.
Coumarin is an identified EU known allergy, meaning it may cause an allergic reaction when applied to the skin.
In many countries, coumarin is banned as a food additive. However, it can be found in soaps, tobacco products, and some alcohol drinks.
Plants use coumarins as a chemical defense. Some plants that have coumarins include lavender, tonka beans, and yellow clovers.
Learn more about CoumarinEugenol is naturally found in cloves, basil, and bay leaves. It is an aromatic oil used to add fragrance to a product. The scent of eugenol is described as "clove-like". Eugenol is a known EU allergen, meaning it causes contact allergies.
Studies show eugenol possesses antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
Besides cosmetics, eugenol is also added as a flavor in teas and cakes.
Learn more about EugenolIsoeugenol is a fragrance component that is naturally occurring in plants such as ylang-ylang, nutmeg, and cinnamon.
Isoeugenol is a known EU allergen. This means it is known to cause an allergic reaction when applied to the skin.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum