This brightening serum is formulated around Thioctic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Thioctic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethyl Mea
BufferingThioctic Acid
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tyrosine
Skin ConditioningLepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantTetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Sorbitol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingAmyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Hexylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Mea, Thioctic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tyrosine, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Lecithin, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Amyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantGlycerin
Humectant2-Dimethylamino Ethanol
Cetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingIron Oxides
Thioctic Acid
AntioxidantTetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantSpilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientMagnesium Carbonate Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTribehenin
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
CleansingHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantSteareth-20
CleansingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningCholecalciferol
Ubiquinone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, 2-Dimethylamino Ethanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Iron Oxides, Thioctic Acid, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Retinol, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycine Soja Oil, Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Tribehenin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Ceramide Ns, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Retinyl Palmitate, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Steareth-20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dipeptide-2, Cholecalciferol, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zea Mays Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is used in skincare because it tends to be more formulation friendly than pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
According to research, MAP has three major benefits:
While MAP is gentler on the skin than ascorbic acid, it is thought to be less easily absorbed into the skin.
In a well-known absorption study, pure vitamin C increased skin vitamin C levels when formulated correctly, but derivatives like MAP did not in that experiment. This suggests MAP may not always convert into active vitamin C in the skin.
Due to MAP's stability up to a pH level of 7, it is more stable to air and sunlight exposure than ascorbic acid. The best pH range for MAP is between 5 and 6.
Learn more about Magnesium Ascorbyl PhosphatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane is an antioxidant.
Thioctic Acid is an enzyme and antioxidant. A more common name for this is Alpha Lipoic Acid.
Alpha Lipoic Acid can be naturally found in the mitochondria of every cell.
Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. The antioxidants in Alpha Lipoic Acid have been shown to fight damage from cigarette smoke.
Studies also show Alpha Lipoic Acid plays a role in wound healing.
Thioctic Acid will break down when exposed to sunlight.
Many foods contain thioctic acid, including tomato, brussel sprouts, spinach, and broccoli.
Learn more about Thioctic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water