What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Glycerin
Humectant
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Alcohol Denat., Tocopheryl Acetate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingGlycerin
Humectant
Isohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Dimethyl Mea
BufferingThioctic Acid
Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Tyrosine
Skin ConditioningLepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Antioxidant
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Antioxidant
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Antioxidant
Lecithin
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Sorbitol
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Amyl Cinnamal
Perfuming
Hydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Water, Hexylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Mea, Thioctic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tyrosine, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Lecithin, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Amyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is used in skincare because it tends to be more formulation friendly than pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
According to research, MAP has three major benefits:
While MAP is gentler on the skin than ascorbic acid, it is thought to be less easily absorbed into the skin.
In a well-known absorption study, pure vitamin C increased skin vitamin C levels when formulated correctly, but derivatives like MAP did not in that experiment. This suggests MAP may not always convert into active vitamin C in the skin.
Due to MAP's stability up to a pH level of 7, it is more stable to air and sunlight exposure than ascorbic acid. The best pH range for MAP is between 5 and 6.
Learn more about Magnesium Ascorbyl PhosphatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
