Monday Muse Skincare The Cocktail Eternal Cream Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantC15-19 Alkane
SolventPolyglyceryl-4 Laurate
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveSodium Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSorbic Acid
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingSalicylic Acid
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientWater, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Squalane, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Carbomer, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Silica, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Salicylic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventPolysilicone-11
C10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientLaureth-12
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Citric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water