What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
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Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialAmodimethicone
Trideceth-12
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingAcetylated Lanolin
EmollientCetyl Acetate
EmollientIsostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate
Glycerin
HumectantBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeButylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-75
HumectantCeteareth-20
CleansingHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Saccharina Extract
Skin ProtectingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Pyrenoidosa Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-2 Cocoate
EmulsifyingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Isohexadecane, Isododecane, C13-15 Alkane, Polysorbate 80, Acetylated Lanolin, Cetyl Acetate, Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Butylene Glycol, PEG-75, Ceteareth-20, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Chlorella Pyrenoidosa Extract, Parfum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycereth-2 Cocoate
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDicetyldimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingParfum
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingUrtica Dioica Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Gluconolactone, Isopropyl Alcohol, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ceteareth-20, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Panthenol, Mentha Piperita Oil, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Urtica Dioica Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is a plant-derived protein made by breaking down wheat proteins into smaller amino acids and peptides. It has skin and hair conditioning properties.
People with known wheat allergy or a history of immediate reactions should be cautious with leave-on products containing hydrolyzed wheat proteins.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumRicinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water