What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPetrolatum
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingCellulose
AbsorbentHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialSodium Acetate
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
ChelatingIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Paraffinum Liquidum, Dimethicone, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycine Soja Oil, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Cellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cetrimonium Chloride, Sodium Acetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropyl Alcohol, DMDM Hydantoin, Parfum, CI 19140, Linalool, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-72
Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingChitosan
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingPCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
MoisturisingBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPolyamide-8
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientSteareth-2
EmulsifyingSteareth-21
CleansingBehenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters
Limonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingDimethylpabamidopropyl Laurdimonium Tosylate
Maltodextrin/Vp Copolymer
Jojoba Esters
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCitronellol
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventCitral
PerfumingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingMethylthiopropylamido Acetyl Methionine
Skin ProtectingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSodium Phosphate
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Myristyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyquaternium-72, Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate, Cetyl Alcohol, C13-15 Alkane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Chitosan, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Parfum, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Maltodextrin, Polyamide-8, Glyceryl Behenate, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Behenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Dimethylpabamidopropyl Laurdimonium Tosylate, Maltodextrin/Vp Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Citronellol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Methylpropanediol, Citral, Disodium Phosphate, Methylthiopropylamido Acetyl Methionine, Polysorbate 60, Benzyl Salicylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Phosphate, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.
It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholThis ingredient is a preservative, antimicrobial, and emulsifier. It is often used in cosmetics for its ability to cleanse, condition, and reduce static.
Cetrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt, meaning it has a water-soluble structure.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water