La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum With Melasyl+Niacinamide Versus Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Rescue Ampoule
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Adenosine and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPolysilicone-11
Silica
AbrasiveBis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone
EmollientCystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract
Skin Conditioning2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine
Skin ConditioningPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Thiosulfate
Carnosine
Skin ConditioningPoloxamer 338
EmulsifyingAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Silica, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract, 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Thiosulfate, Carnosine, Poloxamer 338, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 17200, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 80
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG-150 Distearate
EmulsifyingDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingOlive Oil PEG-8 Esters
EmollientParfum
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Methoxy PEG-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientAchillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingHoney
HumectantRehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLilium Candidum Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingTocopherol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcetyl Heptapeptide-4
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-150 Distearate, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Olive Oil PEG-8 Esters, Parfum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Methoxy PEG-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Honey, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Polygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, BHT, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum