Kosas Dreambeam Comfy Smooth Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Naked Sundays Collagen Glow 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50+
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 21.7%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningC13-15 Alkane
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventMica
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingGalactoarabinan
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
HumectantBioflavonoids
Skin ConditioningGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingPhytic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 21.7%, Water, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Mica, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Silica, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Galactoarabinan, Allantoin, Fructooligosaccharides, Bioflavonoids, Glycoproteins, Bisabolol, Ceramide Ng, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glycerin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Tribehenin, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Phytic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492
Zinc Oxide 22.75%
Cosmetic ColorantAdansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantIron Oxides
Isostearic Acid
CleansingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingProline
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningRice Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZinc Oxide 22.75%, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Iron Oxides, Isostearic Acid, Octyldodecanol, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Proline, Water, Rice Amino Acids, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. This is because the original comedogenic tests (on rabbit ears, which are more sensitive than human skin) tested
The Kligman/Fulton rabbit ear papers actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide