What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Juice
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Juice
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCitrus Limon Juice
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingSalvia Officinalis Oil
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingCinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil
MaskingIsomalt
HumectantLecithin
EmollientEthyl Linalool
MaskingGeraniol
PerfumingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Pyrus Malus Juice, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Glycerin, Citrus Limon Juice, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Cinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil, Isomalt, Lecithin, Ethyl Linalool, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantCalcium Ascorbate
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeBenzaldehyde
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic Acid
CleansingGlycine
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantThioctic Acid
AntioxidantLycopene
AntioxidantSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantAllium Cepa Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningDiazolidinyl Urea
PreservativeIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativeWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Calcium Ascorbate, Potassium Sorbate, Benzaldehyde, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic Acid, Glycine, Tocopherol, Thioctic Acid, Lycopene, Superoxide Dismutase, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Bisabolol, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Squalane, Allantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum