What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientKaolin
AbrasiveMica
Cosmetic ColorantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCeresin
Emulsion StabilisingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveOzokerite
Emulsion StabilisingCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSilica Silylate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Tribehenin
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate, Kaolin, Mica, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ceresin, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Silica, Ozokerite, Cera Microcristallina, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica Silylate, Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Tribehenin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasivePolymethylsilsesquioxane
Jojoba Esters
EmollientEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingTribehenin
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropylene Carbonate
SolventSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientParfum
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingDicaprylyl Carbonate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Synthetic Wax, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Jojoba Esters, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Tribehenin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dimethicone, Parfum, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, BHT, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterDicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin