This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Panthenol to calm redness and clear breakouts.
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid 12%
Buffering
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingEthoxydiglycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Cynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Arginine
Masking
Betaine
Humectant
Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate
HumectantZinc PCA
Humectant
Sodium DNA
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Glycine
Buffering
Glutamic Acid
Humectant
Serine
Masking
Alanine
Masking
Lysine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin Conditioning
Threonine
Water, Azelaic Acid 12%, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethoxydiglycol, Pentylene Glycol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Butylene Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Arginine, Betaine, Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Sodium DNA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phosphatidylcholine, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Lysine, Proline, Threonine
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
Buffering
Glycerin
Humectant
C12-13 Alkyl Lactate
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
EmollientC12-13 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingDimethicone
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Methylparaben
Preservative
Ethylparaben
Preservative
Propylparaben
Preservative
Sodium PCA
Humectant
PCA
Humectant
Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSodium Lactate
Buffering
Arginine
Masking
Aspartic Acid
Masking
Glycine
Buffering
Alanine
Masking
Serine
Masking
Valine
MaskingProline
Skin Conditioning
Threonine
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
Humectant
Phenylalanine
Masking
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Water, Azelaic Acid, Glycerin, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, C12-13 Pareth-9, Dimethicone, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium PCA, PCA, Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAzelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholineProline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
