What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Squalane
Emollient
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Oligopeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Chlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
Masking
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Squalane, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hyaluronic Acid, Oligopeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Chlorphenesin, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Arginine, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Polysilicone-11
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Hexapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Plankton Extract
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Astringent
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Arginine Ferulate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Raspberry Ketone
Masking
Cetearyl Olivate
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Diglycerin
Humectant
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Laureth-12
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Citric Acid
Buffering
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Plankton Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arginine Ferulate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Raspberry Ketone, Cetearyl Olivate, Ubiquinone, Diglycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-12, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
