What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSalvia Officinalis Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningEucalyptol
PerfumingCopaifera Reticulata Balsam Oil
PerfumingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentBeta-Caryophyllene
MaskingCamphor
MaskingCitral
PerfumingL-Alpha-Pinene
PerfumingGeranyl Acetate
PerfumingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingL-Beta-Pinene
PerfumingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantIsobornyl Acetate
MaskingNeryl Acetate
PerfumingMenthone
PerfumingBenzyl Acetate
MaskingCitronellal
MaskingTerpineol
MaskingMenthyl Acetate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Glucoside, Allantoin, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Bakuchiol, Astaxanthin, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Limonene, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Eucalyptol, Copaifera Reticulata Balsam Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Beta-Caryophyllene, Camphor, Citral, L-Alpha-Pinene, Geranyl Acetate, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, L-Beta-Pinene, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Isobornyl Acetate, Neryl Acetate, Menthone, Benzyl Acetate, Citronellal, Terpineol, Menthyl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Panthenol, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Bakuchiol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinBakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum