What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningMel
EmollientPropolis Cera
AntiseborrhoeicLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Pea Protein
EmollientHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningCaesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Maltodextrin
AbsorbentAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
ChelatingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingGlucose
HumectantCI 40800
Cosmetic ColorantLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingWater, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Betaine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Mel, Propolis Cera, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Parfum, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Glucose, CI 40800, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Limonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolOenothera Biennis Oil (aka Evening Primrose Oil) is a non-fragrant oil from the evening primrose. Like other botanical oils, it is an emollient that helps hydrate and nourish skin.
It has an interesting fatty acid profile: linoleic (70-74%) and γ-linolenic (8-10%), with some amounts ofoleic palmitic, and stearic acids.
The gamma-linoleic acid (GLA) is the headliner here; it's relatively rare in plant oils and acts as a precursor for anti-inflammatory signaling molecules in the skin.
There's a mixed body of clinical research with this ingredient as well, mostly on eczema/atopic dermatitis skin.
Some controlled trials showed improvement in inflammation, dryness, scaling, and overall severity. Other studies and large meta-analysis failed to show a significant effect; the honest takeaway here is "promising but inconsistent" rather than "miracle oil".
On the safety front, this ingredient is found to be safe as used in cosmetics and even has a history of safe food use.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores. Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Since this oil is contains oleic acid and palmitic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid sits at C18 and Palmitic acid sits at C16.
In vitro studies have shown that oleic acid and palmitic acid are some of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Oenothera Biennis OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolVitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.
The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.
Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.
The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil