What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Butylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingBoron Nitride
AbsorbentSilica Silylate
EmollientAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingJuglans Regia Leaf Extract
AbrasiveCitrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientTin Oxide
AbrasivePEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingPPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30
EmulsifyingHdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Dimethiconol
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSilica
AbrasiveAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantSalicylic Acid
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Boron Nitride, Silica Silylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Juglans Regia Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Tin Oxide, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Silica, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77891, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantSilica Silylate
EmollientPerlite
AbsorbentIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingTrimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingIsododecane
EmollientAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingPPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30
EmulsifyingPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Citrate
BufferingParfum
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Dimethicone, Zea Mays Starch, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Silica Silylate, Perlite, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Salicylic Acid, Isododecane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dimethiconol, Phenoxyethanol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Citrate, Parfum, Adenosine, Linalool, Tocopherol, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineAlcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer made from ammonium salts. It works as a thickener, emulsifier, and texture enhancer that gives gel-creams a silky, lightweight feel.
This ingredient is versatile and low-maintenance so manufacturers love working with it.
Typical usage levels in cosmetics are usually low and in the range of 0.015 - 2.3%.
Learn more about Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCapryloyl Salicylic Acid comes from salicylic acid, the famous acne-fighting BHA.
It usually goes by a more common name of LHA, or lipohydroxy acid.
Like salicylic acid, this ingredient is a chemical exfoliant that can help break down the oil in your pores and reduce inflammation.
Though studies for LHA do show it to be less effective than salicylic acid. To be fair, salicylic acid is the reigning monarch of acne treatments.
However, a study from 2009 found LHA to be comparable to BPO, making it a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Another study of 14 patients found a significant decrease in comedones after using LHA.
Another pro of LHA? It is less irritating than salicylic acid due to its large molecule size.
Large molecules cannot penetrate skin as well, so they are gentler on the skin. LHA is much less penetrative than salicylic acid.
An in-vitro study (not done on a living organism) found only 6% of LHA penetrated past the statum corneum compared to 58% of salicylic acid. An in-vivo (done on a living organism) analysis revealed ~17% of LHA was still present in the top layer of skin after 4 days, versus ~9% of salicylic acid.
Interestingly, a study from 2008 found LHA comparable to another famous acid, glycolic acid.
This study found about 10% of LHA is as effective as 20-50% of glycolic acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine-lines.
Hydroxy acids have been found to stimulate skin protein, lipids, and thermal thickening. This may have anti-aging benefits.
Learn more about Capryloyl Salicylic AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWe don't have a description for Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid yet.
We don't have a description for Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate yet.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis is a corn-derived ingredient that acts as an oil-in-water emulsifier. It's great at forming lightweight and elegant emulsions for "milky" products.
In dermal testing, undiluted PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate scored a primary irratation index of zero and human repeated insult patch tests at concentrations up to 80% showed no irritation or sensitization. Because of this low irritation score, you'll likely see it in products designed for the eye area.
You'll typically find it at 0.5-3% in formulations. It's also often paired with its sibling, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, to create stable and mild emulsion systems.
The yeast that causes fungal acne loves fats and oils with a carbon chain length between 11 and 24. This ingredient contains stearic acid, which has a chain length of 18. Due to this, we mark this ingredient as not safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about PEG-20 Methyl Glucose SesquistearateThis ingredient is a water-soluble emollient and is derived from glycerin. It also has surfactant properties and can help dissolve oils or actives in water-based products.
According to the manufacturer, this ingredient:
- Moisturizes without stickiness or greasiness.
- Improves the penetration of water-based ingredients while reducing penetration of oil-based ones to help balance delivery in formulations
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
We don't have a description for PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30 yet.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidSilica Silylate is a siloxane polymer, meaning it is made up of silicon and oxygen atoms. It is not soluble in water.
This ingredient is a white powder with oil-absorbing, emollient, and anticaking properties.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum