Youth To The People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask Versus Biologique Recherche Masque Visolastine + Long-Lasting Hydrating Face Mask
This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Squalane to hydrate skin and brighten dull-looking skin.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil for a rinse-off hydration boost.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantOpuntia Tuna Flower/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentAristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Laurate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantTriethyl Citrate
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingGamma-Undecalactone
PerfumingGamma-Decalactone
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Betaine, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Opuntia Tuna Flower/Stem Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract, Moringa Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Laurate, Squalane, Carbomer, Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Riboflavin, Triethyl Citrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Gamma-Undecalactone, Gamma-Decalactone, Tocopherol, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantGossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantRhizobian Gum
Phytic Acid
Citric Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCeteareth-12
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Citrate
BufferingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Kaolin, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Rhizobian Gum, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Isostearate, C14-22 Alcohols, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Citrate, Chlorphenesin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water