What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningVinyldimethicone
Glycine Soja Oil
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAdansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingCetraria Islandica Extract
CleansingHimanthalia Elongata Extract
Skin ProtectingGelidium Cartilagineum Extract
Skin ProtectingMyrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Vinyldimethicone, Glycine Soja Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arginine, Carbomer, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Retinol, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Cetraria Islandica Extract, Himanthalia Elongata Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSqualane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientRetinol 0.1%
Skin ConditioningCetraria Islandica Extract
CleansingHimanthalia Elongata Extract
Skin ProtectingLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingGelidium Cartilagineum Extract
Skin ProtectingFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMyrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Betaine
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine Soja Oil, C12-16 Alcohols, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Retinol 0.1%, Cetraria Islandica Extract, Himanthalia Elongata Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Allantoin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Baobab seeds are rich in vitamins A, E, and D, giving it nice antioxidant properties.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideWe don't have a description for Cetraria Islandica Extract yet.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinFucus Vesiculosus Extract is derived from a type of brown algae.
Algae is an informal term for a group of aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize. It is estimated there are at least 30,000 types of Algae.
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract is also rich in sodium, potassium, and amino acids.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
Learn more about Fucus Vesiculosus ExtractWe don't have a description for Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract yet.
Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract comes from Chinese licorice. This plant is native to Asia and used in Chinese traditional medicine. Chinese licorice root contains antioxidants and polysaccharides.
Antioxidants may help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Polysaccharides help moisturize the skin due to their ability to mimic our natural skin barrier.
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract comes from the witch hazel plant.
Witch Hazel is an astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial ingredient.
The tannin in witch hazel has a drying effect when used on skin and constricts proteins. This helps minimize the look of large pores. The presence of tannins and fragrance may be sensitizing.
The catechins in witch hazel have anti-inflammatory properties while the gallic acid is antibacterial.
Indigenous groups have used witch hazel to help treat inflammation, which was then used by early settlers to North America.
Learn more about Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf ExtractHimanthalia Elongata Extract can help to reduce redness.
Laminaria Japonica Extract comes from a kelp more commonly known as 'sweet kelp'. It is commonly eaten in Japan, Korea, and China.
Sweet kelp is a humectant and helps hydrate your skin. Humectants draw moisture from the air to your skin.
Studies show Laminaria Japonica has antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging. Kelp also contains magnesium and zinc, making it great for calming inflammation and redness.
Learn more about Laminaria Japonica ExtractLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract comes from the lavender plant.
Many components of lavender flowers are antioxidants, such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and several flavonoids.
Traditional Iranian folk medicine uses Lavender extract to help treat inflammation.
Lavender extract may have a scent.
It contains linalool, a known allergen. However, lavender extract contains less linalool than lavender essential oil.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Flower ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractThis extract comes from the camu camu berry and is known for its exceptionally high vitamin C content.
Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Cacao seed extract contains antioxidants known as polyphenols.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water