What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-75
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Potassium Cocoate
EmulsifyingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingSodium Chloride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
Antimicrobial1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningWater, Allantoin, Tetrasodium EDTA, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Stearic Acid, PEG-75, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, 1,2-Hexanediol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingStearic Acid
CleansingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingGlycol Distearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialTetrasodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Trihydroxystearin, Polysorbate 20, Glycol Distearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Tetrasodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 15985
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is also known as green tea hydrosol. It is the water leftover from steeping or steam-distilling tea.
It's mostly in cosmetics to lend a light tea scent and gentle refreshing feel (tonic) rather than acting as an active.
Unlike the extract, this ingredient only carries trace amounts of catechins, amino acids, and caffeine that makes tea leaf extract famous.
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf WaterThis ingredient is also known as Hinoki water. It is made by steam distilling the Japanese cypress tree.
Functionally, this ingredient is often used as a water replacement and concentrations can go as high up as 65%; this just means its more-so used to shape the base of a formula than as a star active.
The water carries small amounts of the tree's volatile compounds that give it a soft and woody scent.
Most of the published skin research is related to the essential oil or leaf extract rather than this water form; these cell and mice studies should antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory effects.
This ingredient only contains a small amount of these beneficial compounds but can still provide some soothing.
The Hinokitiol compound in this water is also antifungal against Malassezia; this can make it a great option for those with fungal acne.
However, those with fragrance sensitivity should patch test.
Fun fact: The Japanese 'Hinoki' Cypress tree is traditionally used to build shrines and temples.
Learn more about Chamaecyparis Obtusa WaterCocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Learn more about Cocamidopropyl BetaineEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source.
Learn more about Lauric AcidThis ingredient is created by distilling parts of the tea tree plant. The bark and leaves of the tea tree plant are rich in Terpinen, an antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory ingredient.
Tea tree may cause sensitivity and irritation for some people due to its linalool and limonene content.
Learn more about tea tree benefits here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf WaterMyristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.
Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.
One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Myristic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTetrasodium EDTA is the salt formed from neutralizing ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid with sodium hydroxide. It is a chelating agent and used to prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps keep the product and ingredients stable.
Tetrasodium EDTA comes as a white solid and is soluble in water.
Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water