What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Kojic Dipalmitate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingStearic Acid
Cleansing
Emulsifying Wax Nf
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
Emulsifying
Betaine
Humectant
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Preservative
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Acrylates Crosspolymer
AbsorbentPolyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Lanolin
Emollient
Disodium EDTA
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Alpha-Arbutin
Antioxidant
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Kojic Dipalmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Emulsifying Wax Nf, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Betaine, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 20, Lanolin, Disodium EDTA, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Alpha-Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Preservative
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Crocus Sativus Callus Extract
Antioxidant
Shea Butter Glyceride
Emollient
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantSodium Benzoate
Masking
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Kojic Dipalmitate
Emollient
Alpha-Arbutin
Antioxidant
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Polyglycerin-3, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Crocus Sativus Callus Extract, Shea Butter Glyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Benzoate, Niacinamide, Kojic Dipalmitate, Alpha-Arbutin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopherol, Panthenol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alpha-Arbutin is made from hydroquinone and glucose. It may also be derived from the fermentation of soybeans.
This ingredient an antioxidant, meaning it helps protect your skin cells against damage.
Studies show this ingredient helps improve hyperpigmentation and fade discoloration.
Alpha-Arbutin may be used with other ingredients that help with hyperpigmentation. These ingredients include retinol, Vitamin C, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid.
Learn more about Alpha-ArbutinThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateImidazolidinyl Urea is a synthetic antimicrobial preservative. It works by slowly releasing small amounts of formaldehyde to keep bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing.
Just so you know, the formaldehyde released at typical use concentrations (up to 0.6% in the EU and typically 0.1-0.3% in the US) are tiny. The CIR Expert Panel has reaffirmed its safety as a cosmetic ingredient at current use concentrations in 2023. It's also not mutagenic in cell studies.
However, it is a known contact sensitizer with about a 1-2% contact allergy rate.
Other formaldehyde releasers include Diazolidinyl Urea or DMDM Hydantoin.
Learn more about Imidazolidinyl UreaKojic Dipalmitate is an oil-soluble ester of Kojic Acid. It was created by bonding Kojic Acid with two Palmitic Acid chains to solve the instability of regular Kojic Acid.
This ingredient is able to stay stable across a wide pH range (~3-10) and easier to work with in formulations.
On the skin, the enzymes found in our skin cells break down this ingredient to release kojic acid where it then gets to work inhibiting melanin production. This makes it popular in products that target hyperpigmentation, dark spots, melasma, and uneven skin tone.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in concentrations between 0.4 - 4%. Research has shown it can be more effective when combined with ingredients like Acetyl Glucosamine, Alpha Arbutin, or Vitamin C.
Because Kojic Dipalmitate is lipophilic (fat-loving), it is usually incorporated into the oil phase of a formulation and functions as a mild emollient. It is also considered more gentle than kojic acid because it doesn't directly form hydrogen bonds with skin proteins in the same way,
However, be sure to patch test this ingredient if you have sensitivities to Kojic Acid or Palmitic Acid.
Due to the Palmitic Acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Kojic DipalmitatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
