What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantKaolin
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantBentonite
AbsorbentPolyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventBenzyl Glycol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Annua Extract
MaskingChlorella Vulgaris Powder
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningRaspberry Ketone
MaskingHydrogen Dimethicone
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Kaolin, Glycerin, CI 77891, Bentonite, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Propanediol, Benzyl Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Powder, Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic Acid, Allantoin, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Zinc Oxide, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Gluconolactone, Citric Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Raspberry Ketone, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Madecassoside, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCalamine
AbsorbentBentonite
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
HumectantZinc Oxide
Cosmetic Colorant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasivePanthenol
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Licorice Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSulfur
AntiseborrhoeicHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantVolcanic Ash
AbrasiveLactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLeptospermum Petersonii Oil
MaskingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMentha Haplocalix Extract
MaskingMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMenthyl Lactate
MaskingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Calamine, Bentonite, Butylene Glycol, Zinc Oxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Kaolin, Panthenol, Lactobacillus/Licorice Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Xanthan Gum, Sulfur, Hydroxyacetophenone, Volcanic Ash, Lactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate, Leptospermum Petersonii Oil, Asiaticoside, Mentha Haplocalix Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Menthyl Lactate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Asiatic Acid is one of the four main actives found in Centella Asiatica. Its headline job is stimulating collagen.
Lab tests on human skin cells show Asiatic Acid tells your skin to make more collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and bouncy.
It also calms inflammation and acts as an antioxidant so it can help skin heal faster, rebuild itself, and repair a damaged barrier.
And on naming, even though "acid" is in the name, it's nothing like an AHA or BHA exfoliant. It's a gentle firming and soothing ingredient that supports your skin barrier.
Concentration-wise, Asiatic Acid is potent at very low doses and usually shows up as a small fraction of a broader centella extract.
Analyses of centella material put Asiatic Acid reported in the range of 0.2-3% of the extract.
This ingredient is non-sensitizing and guinea pig sensitization testing also found it to be a weak sensitizer. That means the risk of acquiring contact sensitivty is quite low.
Allergic contact dermatitis does exist but is also very rare; documented cases tend to involve prolonged use on broken skin plus co-sensitization to fragrance ingredients.
Learn more about Asiatic AcidAsiaticoside comes from the super popular skin-soothing ingredient, Centella asiatica. It's the reason centella-based products have a strong reputation for repairing and calming skin, along with its sibling compound Madecassoside.
Research from 2016-2025 supports its role in:
You'll usually find this in concentrations between 0.2-5%.
Learn more about AsiaticosideBentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Learn more about BentoniteButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneKaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Learn more about KaolinMadecassic Acid is one of the four star actives in Centella Asiatica. In skincare, it earns its keep as a calming and repairing ingredient.
It works through the same core pathways as the rest of the centella family.
First, it turns down inflammation so it helps with things like redness and general upset skin.
Second, it acts as an antioxidant which means it helps protect skin from daily stress and damage.
And third, it nudges the skin to make more collagen and rebuild its support structure.
That combination is why the whole Centella family is known for calming skin, strengthening the barrier, fading redness, and giving anti-aging benefits.
It's worth being honest about the evidence here; a lot of the strongest data is on the full extract or a Madecassoside/Asiaticoside rather than Madecassic Acid alone. Reviewers also note more long-term clinical trials are needed to confirm the full potential.
Concentration-wise, this ingredient is rarely used pure and usually shows up as part of a standardized centella extract where reported content ranges from 0.02-3.06%.
Finished products typically run somewhere in the 0.1-10% range depending on the format.
In real-world tolerance tests, a repeat-insult patch test on an eye lotion with 0.2% Centella extract showed no irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in 54 subjects. And a mascara with 0.5% Madecassoside caused neither irritation nor sensitization in 109 subjects.
Allergy risk is very low, but not zero. Centella and its constituents are classified as weak contact sensitizers and some rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis exist.
Learn more about Madecassic AcidPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide