Shiseido Bio-Performance Glow Revival Serum Versus Kiehl's Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing 0.3% Retinol Night Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around 2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientDiphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningSd Alcohol 40-B
AstringentPEG-20
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveIsostearic Acid
CleansingMica
Cosmetic ColorantPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
CleansingLauryl Betaine
CleansingMethylparaben
PreservativeCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXylitol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingGlycylglycine
2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantLimonene
PerfumingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantOryzanol
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSaccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingCrataegus Monogyna Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Sd Alcohol 40-B, PEG-20, Trehalose, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Silica, Isostearic Acid, Mica, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, CI 77891, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Lauryl Betaine, Methylparaben, Carbomer, Xylitol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Glycylglycine, 2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Metaphosphate, Butylene Glycol, Limonene, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Oryzanol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Alcohol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, CI 77491, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantPanthenol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglycerin-3
HumectantC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Betaine
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglycerin-3, C12-14 Pareth-12, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Betaine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Tromethamine, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water