What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsostearyl Isostearate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40
Skin ConditioningAesculus Hippocastanum Bark Extract
AstringentAlcohol
AntimicrobialAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantCamphanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantDextran
Dipotassium Phosphate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Ergothioneine
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrochloric Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePinanediol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeResveratrol Dimethyl Ether
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningSodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel FormingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantTriethanolamine
BufferingTromethamine
BufferingZinc Chloride
AntimicrobialWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isostearyl Isostearate, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40, Aesculus Hippocastanum Bark Extract, Alcohol, Alpha-Arbutin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, BHA, BHT, Butylene Glycol, Camphanediol, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, CI 17200, Dextran, Dipotassium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Ergothioneine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Protein, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrochloric Acid, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Pinanediol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Retinal, Retinol, Retinyl Propionate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Cholate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Superoxide Dismutase, Triethanolamine, Tromethamine, Zinc Chloride
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventLecithin
EmollientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDextran
Dipotassium Phosphate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantErgothioneine
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrochloric Acid
BufferingNicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-6
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingQuercetin
AntioxidantResveratrol Dimethyl Ether
AntioxidantSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Propanediol, Lecithin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40, Alcohol, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Carbomer, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dextran, Dipotassium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ergothioneine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrochloric Acid, Nicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-6, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Quercetin, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Cholate, Triethanolamine, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a peptide.
Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Dipotassium Phosphate is an inorganic salt. This just means it has a different structure than organic salts. It is a stabilizing and pH adjusting ingredient.
This ingredient is soluble in water.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAErgothioneine is an amino acid found naturally in mushrooms, grains, and meat. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.
This amino acid helps with:
- Maintaining DNA stability and cell reproduction
- Enhances cellular immunity
- Skin brightening
- Anti-aging
- Skin soothing
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrochloric Acid can be found in the human body. It used to adjust pH levels of basic solutions.
Another name for this ingredient is muriatic acid.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinThis is a lab-designed fusion peptide that gets its name from how it's made.
It pairs a small carrier peptide with a single-chain recombinant human protein that engineered to be identical to the human gene coding for Transforming Growth Factor Beta-2 (TGF-β2).
Rather than being brewed in bacteria, it's grown inside Nicotiana benthamiana, a tobacco relative used as a tiny plant "factory" (a technique called molecular farming that's well documented in the scientific literature for producing functional human growth factors).
In a formula, this ingredient acts as an anti-aging and skin conditioning active.
TGF-β2 is a signaling molecule that switches on the pathway in your skin to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I and support the skin's own lipid production.
This is why manufacturer's pitch it as a retinol-like alternative. And unlike retinoids, this ingredient doesn't increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few weeks of use. This makes it suitable for daytime use.
The headline claims for this ingredient come from the manufacturer's own 28 day in vivo studies. They reported reductions in wrinkle count, volume and depth, pore size reduction, and increases in radiance, hydration, firmness, and elasticity.
Though these sound solid, just keep in mind these are company-run trials rather than independent peer-reviewed dermatology papers.
The broader peer-reviewed work mostly backs the production method and the general collagen-stimulating biology of plant made TGF-β2 proteins and not an exact finished product.
One honest caveat: the molecule is large (like collagen) so it likely sits more at the surface rather than penetrating deeply into skin.
Typical concentration use levels are quite low and the actual bioactive protein is only present in trace amounts since growth factors work at very low doses.
Learn more about Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40 is a peptide.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Phosphate is the term for the salts of potassium and phosphate ions. Our bodies naturally create and use potassium phosphate.
In cosmetics, potassium phosphate is used to adjust the pH level of products. Our skin has a natural pH level. Maintaining this pH level is important for our skin barrier. If the skin barrier is disrupted, our skin can experience dehydration and irritation.
This ingredient is used in medicine to help treat low blood levels of phosphorus.
Learn more about Potassium PhosphatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolResveratrol Dimethyl Ether is an antioxidant.
Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideWe don't have a description for Sodium Cholate yet.
Triethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineTromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water