This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPPG-24-Glycereth-24
EmulsifyingGlycerin
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTroxerutin
Skin ConditioningCistus Monspeliensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Nonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Aviculare Extract
EmollientTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
ChelatingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
ChelatingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Propanediol, PPG-24-Glycereth-24, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Troxerutin, Cistus Monspeliensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nonapeptide-1, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Disodium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, CI 15985
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
Emulsion StabilisingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantGlucose
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientHydrogenated Farnesene
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventEthoxydiglycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
ChelatingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glucose, Bisabolol, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Citrate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water