What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientBehentrimonium Methosulfate
SurfactantC13-15 Alkane
SolventOleyl Alcohol
EmollientYeast Amino Acids
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningSteareth-2
EmulsifyingSteareth-10
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycol Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
EmollientAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingEthyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingWater, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Isoamyl Laurate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, C13-15 Alkane, Oleyl Alcohol, Yeast Amino Acids, Lactobacillus Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycol Stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientPropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Skin ConditioningPPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientQuaternium-91
Isoamyl Laurate
EmollientPolyquaternium-4
Hydroxypropyl Guar
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventLinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantPCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
MoisturisingArginine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Histidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlycolic Acid
BufferingAspartic Acid
MaskingSodium Lactate
BufferingEthyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl
Skin ConditioningZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Quaternium-91, Isoamyl Laurate, Polyquaternium-4, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Isododecane, C13-15 Alkane, Linoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Parfum, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycerin, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium PCA, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, Arginine, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl, Zea Mays Starch, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Pentylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Propanediol, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C13-15 Alkane is a group of alkanes with 13 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.
It is a solvent and texture enhancer. Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolWe don't have a description for Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl yet.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseIsoamyl Laurate is a plant-derived and biodegradable lightweight emollient that is an Ecocert/COSMOS approved alternative to silicones.
It functions as an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin without leaving a greasy/sticky feel.
You'll find it in a range of products from makeup to sunscreen, and typically at low percentages (~2-5%).
This ingredient is deemed safe at current cosmetic use and non-sensitizing in human studies (it's even approved as a food additive flavoring substance).
Because this ingredient is an easter of lauric acid, it falls in the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on, making this ingredient not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isoamyl LaurateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWe don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water