What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsododecane
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolycyclopentadiene
Tribehenin
EmollientPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingHexyl Laurate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Propylene Carbonate
SolventParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingIron Oxides
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Isododecane, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polycyclopentadiene, Tribehenin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Hexyl Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Carbonate, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingNylon-12
Glycerin
HumectantCyclomethicone
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Skin ConditioningThermus Thermophillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventLauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingHexyl Laurate
EmollientMethicone
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientMalachite Extract
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningIron Oxides
Water, Phenyl Trimethicone, Isododecane, Titanium Dioxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Nylon-12, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate, Methicone, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Malachite Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited. Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateThis ingredient is a silicone-based emulsifer that helps the water and oil phases play nicely together. It's so effective because one end of the molecule loves oil and the other one loves water.
Besides holding formulas together, it also leaves a silky and lightweight feel on skin without the greasiness. A manufacturer also claims it can help with the controlled release of active ingredients.
The CIR Expert Panel found this ingredient to not be sensitizing in concentrations up to 15% in human maximazation testing and dimethicone-based compounds were not comedogenic.
It has a high molecular weight well above 1,000 g/mol which means it limits meaningful skin penetration.
A 2019 study specifically tested this ingredient and found no observable Malassezia growth in its presence.
Learn more about Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 DimethiconeCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDisteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexyl Laurate isn't fungal acne safe.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneIsododecane is a fragrance, emollient, and solvent.
As an emollient, it helps your skin stay soft and hydrated. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin.
Isododecane's role as a solvent makes it a great texture enhancer. It spreads smoothly on skin and does not leave a sticky feeling behind. Isododecane also helps prevent color transfer in makeup products.
Isododecane is not absorbed into skin.
The chemical name for this ingredient is 2,2,4,6,6-PENTAMETHYLHEPTANE.
Learn more about IsododecanePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Phenyl Trimethicone is a silicon-based polymer. It is derived from silica.
Phenyl Trimethicone is used as an emollient and prevents products from foaming.
As an emollient, it helps trap moisture in the skin. It is considered an occlusive.
Learn more about Phenyl TrimethiconeThis ingredient is an emulsifer and stabilizer. It comes from isostearic acid and polyglycerin.
As an emulsifier, it helps blend oil and water to improve texture, spreadbility, and application.
Due to it being derived from isostearic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-4 IsostearateThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterThis ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.
Learn more about Iron Oxides