What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Glycerin
HumectantBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCarnitine Hcl
HumectantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum
Potassium Behenoyl Hydroxyproline
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Pentadecalactone
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantBehenic Acid
CleansingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningTin Oxide
AbrasiveCapsicum Annuum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentNicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Acacia Senegal Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Caffeine, Carnitine Hcl, Mica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum, Potassium Behenoyl Hydroxyproline, Disodium EDTA, Pentadecalactone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Behenic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Tin Oxide, Capsicum Annuum Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantJojoba Esters
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPEG-16 Macadamia Glycerides
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningS-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate
Skin ConditioningCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylyl Methicone, Glycerin, Jojoba Esters, Niacinamide, PEG-16 Macadamia Glycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat., Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Caffeine, S-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Arginine, Glycine, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Learn more about Hexylene GlycolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water