What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientAlbizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolyacrylate-13
Gluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPEG-100 Stearate
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPolyisobutene
Arachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Glucoside
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycolic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyacrylate-13, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Hyaluronic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyisobutene, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Gluconate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycolic Acid
BufferingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientEthyl Oleate
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingBackhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil
MaskingCymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil
MaskingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingCymbopogon Nardus Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantifolia Oil
CleansingPolyacrylamide
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCalcium Gluconate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Butylene Glycol
HumectantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingNonapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Ethyl Oleate, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Cymbopogon Nardus Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Polyacrylamide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Calcium Gluconate, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Nonapeptide-4
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientâs final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural âglueâ that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (thatâs where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But donât skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless youâre highly sensitive, itâs well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water