What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol Dicaprylate
EmollientSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Glycerin
HumectantThermus Thermophillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantMedicago Sativa Extract
TonicSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentGlucose
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePolyacrylate-13
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPolyisobutene
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientLaureth-3
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicWater, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Propanediol Dicaprylate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glycerin, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Medicago Sativa Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Plankton Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Glucose, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-9, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Parfum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polyisobutene, Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethiconol, Laureth-3, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Biotin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Isostearate
EmollientIsostearyl Isostearate
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventBetaine
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentPolyglyceryl-3 Laurate
EmulsifyingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLevulinic Acid
PerfumingPolyglyceryl-6 Oleate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPectin
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingGlucose
HumectantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantBacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Phosphate
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, C13-15 Alkane, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Methyl Gluceth-20, Oryza Sativa Starch, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Sodium Levulinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Butylene Glycol, Pectin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arginine, Proline, Serine, Glucose, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolChondrus Crispus Extract comes from a red algae native to the northern Atlantic coasts of Europe and North America. It helps hydrate the skin and is rich in antioxidants.
The antioxidants in chondrus crispus include lutein and zeaxanthin. Lutein has the ability to filter blue light from screens.
Other contents of chondrus crispus include polysaccharides, peptides, and amino acids. These help hydrate the skin.
What's the difference between algae and seaweed?
Algae is a broad term that includes seaweed. Not all algae is seaweed.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water-soluble blend of peptides and amino acids made by breaking down the protein from soybeans into smaller proteins.
It's the most widely used hydrolyzed vegetable protein in cosmetics and it acts mainly as a skin and hair conditioning agent.
The smaller fragments are water-loving so it forms a thin, moisture-retentive film on skin that helps reduce water loss and leaves things feeling softer and smoother.
You'll often see it credited with "firming" or "anti-aging" benefits as well; this claim traces back to lab research like Tokudome et al. (2012). This study added low-molecular-weight soybean peptides to cultured human skin fibroblasts and saw increased type I collagen gene expression + collagen content.
The caveat is that this is in-vitro and oral-peptide research so the only solid, well-established role for the topical ingredient is skin conditioning.
Typical use concentrations go up to 3.5% in mascara but this ingredient is typically used at low levels well under 1%.
It has a reassuring safety profile as well; it's not a skin irritant in testing up to 20% and has limited skin penetration due to its large size and water-loving nature.
Anyone with a known soy allergy should definitely patch test or skip this ingredient. There's also a single case of a soy-containing product aggravating rosacea via protein contact dermatitis, but this is very rare.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Soy ProteinHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcellulosePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum