What's inside
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycol Stearate
EmollientLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientHydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride
HumectantPolyquaternium-4
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningC9-12 Alkane
SolventSqualane
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientNigella Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
EmollientMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientBoswellia Carterii Oil
MaskingHyssopus Officinalis Extract
MaskingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingHibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract
HumectantChlorella Ferment
Skin ConditioningTremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSodium Laneth-40 Maleate/Styrene Sulfonate Copolymer
Parfum
MaskingCaramel
Cosmetic Colorant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAlcohol
AntimicrobialLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycol Stearate, Lactobacillus, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-4, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, C9-12 Alkane, Squalane, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Boswellia Carterii Oil, Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract, Chlorella Ferment, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Panthenol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sodium Laneth-40 Maleate/Styrene Sulfonate Copolymer, Parfum, Caramel, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Alcohol, Linalool, Limonene, Coumarin, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
C13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCitronellol
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingIngredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolCoumarins are a group of substances found naturally in plants. There are over 1300 types of coumarins identified. It has a natural vanilla scent.
Coumarin is an identified EU known allergy, meaning it may cause an allergic reaction when applied to the skin.
In many countries, coumarin is banned as a food additive. However, it can be found in soaps, tobacco products, and some alcohol drinks.
Plants use coumarins as a chemical defense. Some plants that have coumarins include lavender, tonka beans, and yellow clovers.
Learn more about CoumarinLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water