What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantBixa Orellana Seed Extract
MaskingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGarcinia Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientLanolin
EmollientAroma
Lecithin
EmollientSilybin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRebaudioside A
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Beeswax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Octyldodecanol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vegetable Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Ceramide NP, Glycine Soja Oil, Lanolin, Aroma, Lecithin, Silybin, Tocopherol, Rebaudioside A, Citric Acid, Limonene
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingCera Alba
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentMica
Cosmetic ColorantOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientVanillin
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantAcacia Decurrens Flower Cera
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSalicornia Herbacea Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Cera Alba, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Mica, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Jojoba Esters, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Vanillin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Polyglycerin-3, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, CI 15850, CI 73360, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891, CI 77742, CI 16035
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilPersea Gratissima Oil is also known as avocado oil.
Avocado Oil has antioxidant properties. It is mostly made up of the glycerides of fatty acids. About 67% of these fatty acids is made up of oleic acid. Palmitic acid and linoleic acid are also present.
These fatty acids help hydrate and soften the skin. It may increase collagen content in the skin. Collagen helps keep your skin plump and firm. This ingredient helps reduce inflammation and has not shown to clog pores.
This ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe due to its high fatty acid content.
Avocados also have B vitamins, vitamin K, vitamin C, vitamin E, and potassium.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilRicinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Like other plant butters, Cacao seed butter is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. By creating a barrier to trap moisture in, emollients help keep your skin hydrated.
Cacao seed butter contains antioxidants known as polyphenols. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules by stabilizing them. Unstable free-radicals may cause damage to your skin cells. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter can be bad for acne prone skin.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed ButterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol