Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Ceramides Rebuilding And Nourishing Serum Versus Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Active Anti-age Skin Brightening Serum Day/Night
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Gluconolactone to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientCocoglycerides
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
ChelatingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningArginine PCA
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSqualene
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentTaurine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Cocoglycerides, C14-22 Alcohols, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Beta-Glucan, Gluconolactone, Ceramide NP, Beta-Sitosterol, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Arginine PCA, Dimethicone, Glycine Soja Oil, Squalene, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Taurine, Disodium EDTA, Cellulose Gum, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 19140, CI 17200
Water
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
ChelatingNiacinamide
Smoothing3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
Perfuming
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water