What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate
EmulsifyingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientParfum
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantPrunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTriethyl Citrate
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantKaolin
AbrasiveSilica
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCI 77007
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
CI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientOpuntia Coccinellifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Disodium Phosphate
BufferingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Phosphate
BufferingSphingolipids
EmollientSphingomonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCoco-Betaine
CleansingPEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
EmulsifyingSodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
CleansingMaltitol
HumectantSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CleansingSodium Cocoyl Isethionate
CleansingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPolyquaternium-22
Isopropyl Alcohol
SolventSodium Citrate
BufferingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Bisabolol, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Triethyl Citrate, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Kaolin, Silica, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, CI 77007, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, CI 77499, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lecithin, Mica, Chlorphenesin, CI 77491, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Opuntia Coccinellifera Flower Extract, CI 77891, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, CI 77510, Sodium Phosphate, Sphingolipids, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Citric Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Coco-Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Maltitol, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Benzoate, Polyquaternium-22, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate
EmulsifyingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientParfum
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantPrunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTriethyl Citrate
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Bisabolol, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Triethyl Citrate, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate isn't fungal acne safe.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateThis ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilPrunus Domestica Seed Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTriethyl Citrate comes from citric acid. It has masking, perfuming, and solvent properties. As a solvent, this ingredient helps disperse ingredients evenly in skincare.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient can:
According to perfume manufacturers, this ingredient is almost odorless but has a mild fruity, wine and plum scent. It can be used to mask the scent of other ingredients.
This ingredient can be plant-sourced or synthetic; it can naturally be found in cabbage and white wine.
Learn more about Triethyl CitrateVitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.
The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.
Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.
The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil