What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialJojoba Esters
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventTridecyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingNylon-12
Methylpropanediol
SolventSilica
AbrasiveCoco-Caprylate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentOryza Sativa Germ Extract
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantCoffea Arabica Seed Oil
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingLecithin
EmollientStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPhenylpropanol
MaskingHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingZinc Oxide, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Propanediol, Tridecyl Salicylate, Niacinamide, Nylon-12, Methylpropanediol, Silica, Coco-Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycine Soja Oil, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Bisabolol, Coffea Arabica Seed Oil, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Lecithin, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Phenylpropanol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPropanediol
SolventDiisopropyl Adipate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientAcrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingScenedesmus Rubescens Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Lecithin, Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Xanthan Gum, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Methicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDimethylmethoxy Chromanol is an antioxidant.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide