Truss Professional Night Spa Serum

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Concentration-wise, safety review reports the wider trimonium family shows up between 0.0005% to 10% in rinse-off products and 0.001% to 4% in leave-on products.

This ingredient is commonly used at ~1–5% when acting as the emulsifier.

Allergies to this ingredient are rare; the CIR panel noted the literature lacks clinical reports of irritation or sensitization and patch tests on finished products containing it came back clean.

The most popular types of cyclomethicones include D5 and D6.

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

It is made up of glycidoxypropyl-terminated dimethyl siloxane polymer, peg-13 diglycidyl ether, diethylaminopropylamine, and aminopropyltriisopropoxysilane.

In cosmetics, it acts as a skin conditioner, occlusive, and emollient that give products a rich body.

Concentrations are reported from 0.0004% to 60% with leave-on products going as high as 60% and rinse-off products staying at 8% or below.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores. Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

Since this ingredient is a triglyceride built mostly from C16 and C18 fatty acids, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe as that falls into the range the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Allergy-wise, the proteins responsible for plant food allergies are taken out of the refined oil. This is why reactions to refined oils are rare even from highly allergenic sources like peanut. Well-designed studies have also shown refined peanut oil is safely tolerated by the vast majority of peanut-allergic people.

However, the issue is with unrefined oils; be sure to reach out to the manufacturer if you have a plant food allergy about the type of oil used in their products.

The other catch for this INCI name is that it doesn't tell you which plants are in the blend so you would need to ask the brand.

This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3-5, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.

Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.

A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.

Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has looked at it multiple times and concluded it as safe as used in cosmetics as long as suppliers follow residue limits.

Usage sits anywhere from tiny amounts to about 32%; industry reports show concentrations run from 0.08% to 32% in leave-on products and 0.004% to 29% in rinse off products.

Formulas containing 3.4%-8.97% were found to be not irritating ina nimal testing.

This ingredient does carry a comedogenic rating of 3 from the old rabbit-ear assay. Just remember testing finished products in humans showed that formulas built with "comedogenic" ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves. It's worth patch testing if you're breakout prone, and always listen to your skin.

Since the Malassezia yeast can metabolize the oil's C16-18 fatty acids, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Cottonseed protein is a potent allergy when eaten or inhaled; this ingredient is the oil and not that protein; the protein doesn't usually end up in the refined oil for cosmetic use but it's best to patch-test since manufacturer quality differs around the world. Unrefined or cold-pressed versions of this oil are also more likely to retain protein.

As an emollient, it softens and hydrates skin by forming a thin barrier that locks in moisture.

Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the available safety data and concluded it is safe for topical use.

Because of the oleic acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.

Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

The ranges of the fatty acids differ so much because it varies batch to batch depending on the cultivar and the growing conditions.

In skincare, it mostly does good plant oil stuff: it softens, sits on the surface to slow water evaporation, and makes formulas feel richer.

Now the honest part. Corn oil isn't studied much in dermatology but we do know it's the go-to vehicle in lab research. So there's decades of research where corn oil was the boring control; it never produced an effect of its own but we also don't have much research on it doing something exciting for your skin.

The one thing worth talking about is linoleic. Acne-prone follicles tend to be low in linoleate and a small study found topical linoleic acid shrank microcomedones by around 25% over a month. That was pure linoleic acid and not corn oil so it should be filed under "promising theory" rather than "proven benefit".

Concentration use can be anywhere from trace amounts to about 14% (the high end shows up in cleansers, moisturizers, body creams, and masks). Corn germ oil, which is basically the same ingredient under a different INCI name, has been reported as high as 25% but most of the time you're looking at low single digits.

Corn oil itself isn't a common allergen. Allergies to actual corn are triggered by corn proteins which is mostly refined out of the oil for cosmetic use. How much of the protein removed depends on the manufacturing process, so it's always better to patch test just in case.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 0-3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.

Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

The Malassezia yeast can't make its own fatty acids and breaks down oils around it to feed. Lab research shows the yeast grows when fatty acids in the C11-C24 range are available. Since corn oil is almost entirely C16-C18 fatty acids, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Wheat germ oil's real claim to fame is its vitamin E content; it has the highest vitamin E of any vegetable oil. This gives is strong antioxidant properties and helps the oil resist going rancid.

Patch-testing of wheat-germ products has shown no irritation or sensitization, and this ingredient is a great choice for dry skin. It might be a bit heavy for acne-prone or oily skin.

There are just three caveats worth knowing:

Like other plant oils, it contains the C11-24 fatty acids that Malassezia can metabolize. Therefore, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Refined oils carry very little protein, but anyone diagnosed with a wheat or gluten allergy should patch test just to be cautious.

While blogs like to list this ingredient with a comedogenic rating of 5, the original study was actually done on a different ingredient: wheat germ triglycerides. Wheat germ triglycerides actually scored a 3 and not a 5. The 5 appears to be a mix-up that spread across charts over the years, with no actual data behind it. Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.

The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.

The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 0-3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores. Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

As a humectant, Xylityl Sesquicaprylate helps attract water to your skin. This helps with increasing hydration for your skin.

For haircare friends: this ingredient is not a silicone.

Fatty acid-wise, it's a fairly plain high oleic oil (~73-80% oleic, ~15-21% palmitic). So it behaves like the olive and avocado oils of the world: rich, cushiony, good at softening skin and slowing water loss.

Human data is thin but reassuring on the irritation front: a cream containing buriti oil plus a few other Peruvian plant oils caused no irritation or sensitisation over 28 days of daily use. There are also no published allergy case reports for it either.

The most common complaint is that this ingredient can tint skin and stain pillowcases at higher percentages.

There is a widely quoted SPF 49 result but that came from a nanoemulsion that had actual chemical sunscreens in it, so the SPF is not the oil's. Don't treat this ingredient as a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

Since this ingredient is built on oleic and palmitic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. This is exactly what the Malassezia yeast feeds on.