Nat Habit 48H Fresh Whipped All-Day Malai Moisturizer

Manuka-type honey has an extra bacteria-killing compound called methylglyoxal, while all Honey contains a natural antibacterial protein called bee defensin-1.

Honey also nudges your immune cells to release signals that start the healing process. This is why medical-grade Honey is actually used in real wound dressings.

Just keep in mind that most of the strong clinical evidence is for wound care and not everyday cosmetic claims.

On concentrations and safety:
According to industry data, honey is used up to 22% in paste/mud packs, 7% as a honey extract in body/hand products, and face skincare levels sit well below that.

A human repeat insult patch test of 7% honey extract in 112 subjects showed no sensitization.

Allergy-wise, honey itself is a rare sensitizer. The bigger culprit is usually propolis that sometimes tags along in less-refined honey.

People allergic to propolis, conifer, poplar, salicylates, or Balsam of Peru are advised to avoid this ingredient due to shared allergens.

You might see this ingredient listed as either Honey or Mel (they're the same thing). Mel is simply the Latin word for honey.

A lot of people wonder if Honey is vegan, and technically it isn't.

Honey is made by bees; they gather nectar and their natural enzymes turn it into the Honey we know. So because it comes from an animal, it doesn't fit a vegan lifestyle.

And please remember to be kind to bees :). They're vital to so many ecosystems, and many species are struggling so they're worth protecting.

The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.

This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.

Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.

Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.

Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).

The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.

Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.

It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).

Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.

Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.

Another interesting compound that makes it stand out from other oils is the trace amount of all-trans retinoic acid (the same molecule as prescription tretinoin), along with some carotenoids and tocopherols.

The linoleic acid is a precursor to ceramide 1, one of the essential lipids in the stratum corneum. Topical linoleic acid application has been shown to improve barrier function and reduce comedone size in clinical studies.

One study found that linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid lighten UV-induced hyperpigmentation. A 2015 study found that participants who used rosehip twice daily for eight weeks saw improvements in crow's feet, skin moisture, and skin elasticity compared to the placebo.

If you're hoping to get tretinoin benefits from this ingredient, it's worth noting the trans-retinoid acid is trace-level and minimal compared to the amount of retinol or tretinoin found in formulas.

A 2024 review highlighted the fatty acid composition in rosehip-based dermatological products for:

Typical usage rates range from 1-100% with 5-10% being the most common in moisturizers.

Since the oil is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, it's prone to oxidation. Look for formulations stabilized with ingredients like vitamin E and be sure to store away from light/heat.

Fungal acne: This oil is not considered fungal acne safe because dominant fatty acids fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

As an emollient, carrot seed oil creates a thin film on the skin. This film prevents moisture from escaping, keeping your skin hydrated. Carrot seed oil has a soothing effect and can help alleviate inflammation.

As an antioxidant, carrot seed oil may help reduce the signs of aging. Antioxidants are able to neutralize free-radical molecules, or molecules that can damage our skin's cells and DNA.

Emerging studies show the alpha-pinene and carotol content give carrots antibacterial and antifungal properties. However, this is dependent on the amount of each compound. More studies are needed.

Carrot Seed Oil is not carrot oil. Carrot oil is created by mixing parts of the carrot in a carrier oil, such as coconut oil.

As an antioxidant, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil may also slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight unstable free-radical molecules.

These molecules may damage your skin cells and speed up aging. By helping to stabilize these molecules, antioxidants may help slow the signs of aging.

A study from 2015 found Tamanu oil to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Another study from 2009 found Tamanu Oil to help absorb UV rays. However, this should not replace your sunscreen.

Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

As an emollient, pomegranate oil creates a thin film on the skin. This film helps prevent moisture loss, keeping your skin hydrated.

Studies show thymoquinone helps reduce oxidative stress and dampens the inflammatory pathways. Combining this with the oils makes this ingredient great for barrier repair and moisturization.

Other studies have found this ingredient to have antimicrobial activity against several acne-causing bacteria.

A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.

Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.

It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.

Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.

Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.

Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".

Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).

The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.

Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).

This pairing gives it barrier-supporting and moisturizing properties. Linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, can be incorporated into complex skin lipids. Topical application has shown barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing effects in cell and animal studies.

Beyond fatty acids, sesame oil brings something more distinctive to the table:

It contains natural antioxidants sesamol, sesamolin, and gamma-tocopherol. These also give the oil notably high oxidative stability.

One of the oil's key lignans, sesamin, has also demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models.

A 2023 clinical study found that a single application of sesame seed oil to the forearms of 35 healthy women improved stratum corneum hydration (though it didn't outperform raspberry seed oil).

The comedogenic rating of 1-3 depends on the type of sesame oil; unrefined carries a rating of 3 while refined sesame oil drops to a 1.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne as it contains fatty acids that can feed Malassezia.

Rosmarinic acid has been shown to calm inflammation signaling in skin cells (the same pathways that flare up in conditions like eczema and psoriasis). It also has real antimicrobial and antifungal activity in test-tube studies.

This ingredient is typically used in low concentrations (generally well under 1%) where it acts as a light fragrance + mild skin soother extract.

The main thing to know is that lavender contains two naturally fragrant molecules: Linalool and Linalyl Acetate. Some people's skin does perfectly fine with fragrance while others don't.

Just be sure to patch test if you have reactive skin or known plant allergies.

Linalool and Linalyl Acetate are gentle when fresh but oxidize into compounds that can cause allergic contact dermatitis when exposed to air. Patch-test studies of patients already being investigated for skin allergies found about 5-7% of patients had reactions to oxidized linalool, and 2.8% of patients reacted to oxidized lavender oil.

Just keep in mind that rose extracts contain known fragrance allergens like citronellol, geraniol, linalool, and limonene.

Lab studies credit this oil with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activity. Some research even show rosemary compounds calming acne-related inflammation.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be nonsensitizing.

Since this is a fragrant essential oil, the main concern is for fragrance-sensitive folks.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!