What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Emollient
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Castor Isostearate Succinate
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Emollient
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Tin Oxide
Abrasive
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Humectant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Mica, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Synthetic Beeswax, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Tocopherol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Tin Oxide, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Maltodextrin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Silica
Abrasive
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientStearyl Behenate
Emollient
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract
Propylene Carbonate
SolventSilica Silylate
Emollient
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Blue 1 Lake
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Diisostearyl Malate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Stearyl Behenate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract, Propylene Carbonate, Silica Silylate, Titanium Dioxide, Blue 1 Lake, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. This is because the original comedogenic tests (on rabbit ears, which are more sensitive than human skin) tested
The Kligman/Fulton rabbit ear papers actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
