What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSilica
Abrasive
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Dimethicone
Emollient
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Methicone
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Propylene Carbonate
SolventAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantOctyldodecanol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Silica, Synthetic Wax, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Mica, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica Silylate, Methicone, Phenoxyethanol, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propylene Carbonate, Aluminum Hydroxide, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Silica
Abrasive
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientStearyl Behenate
Emollient
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract
Propylene Carbonate
SolventSilica Silylate
Emollient
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Blue 1 Lake
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Diisostearyl Malate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Stearyl Behenate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract, Propylene Carbonate, Silica Silylate, Titanium Dioxide, Blue 1 Lake, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSilica Silylate is a siloxane polymer, meaning it is made up of silicon and oxygen atoms. It is not soluble in water.
This ingredient is a white powder with oil-absorbing, emollient, and anticaking properties.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilStearalkonium Hectorite is a clay-derived ingredient used to thicken a product and help create a gel-like texture.
