What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycereth-26, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Adenosine, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingPotassium Laurate
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Pvp
Emulsion StabilisingFullerenes
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Pearl
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingNigella Sativa Seed Extract
PerfumingRubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentRibes Nigrum Leaf Extract
PerfumingPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningTuber Melanosporum Extract
HumectantAureobasidium Pullulans Ferment
Skin ConditioningGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMonascus Extract
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Potassium Laurate, BHT, Carbomer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Octyldodeceth-16, Caprylyl Glycol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Pvp, Fullerenes, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Plankton Extract, Parfum, Nigella Sativa Seed Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract, Propolis Extract, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Monascus Extract, Maltodextrin, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis ingredient is a synthetic copolymer (a polymer made from more than one type of building block). It is used to stabilize formulas and control the viscosity.
Because it is a large, inert polymer, it doesn't have biological activities and stays on the surface of the skin.
Another name for this ingredient is polyoxyethylene decyltetradecyl ether/hexamethylene diisocyanate/polyethylene glycol 11000 copolymer.
Learn more about PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 EtherPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water